Coupeville

Should we have stayed at home and thought of here?
Where should we be today?
-- Elizabeth Bishop

Sunday, March 19, 2000
One year ago: Mid-Tempo Madness
Two years ago: Surreality

The story of this "my weekend away" trip starts here. Or does it start here?

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No quiet, intimate breakfast this morning -- there was a houseful of people, all eating at the same time. So our hosts set up a buffet on the kitchen counter, and we all ate together (but each party at its own little table). When I was done eating, I went back and got into that big two-person Jacuzzi tub again. When Jack joined me, I had him scrub my back with a woven scrub sort of thing I bought the other day. I was surprised to find out that my skin was tougher than his! Or at least, I liked the sensation, but his own back couldn't take it.

We had some relaxing time after the bath, but all too soon we needed to pack and go. I'd certainly recommend the Villa Isola to those who want to visit Whidbey Island, especially those who aren't craving Victoriana or cutsey country style.

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I'd asked Jack that our first stop today be the gas station. One: I needed to fill up. Two: I'd tried to check my transmission fluid the other day, and hadn't been able to remove the dipstick, so I wanted him to observe and make sure I was doing it correctly. Three: I wanted his help in checking the other fluids and such. He gave me some tips and I got the car taken care of, though I did skin my knuckles when I pulled out the transmission fluid dipstick -- it was very reluctant to come out, so it wasn't just my wimpiness that had caused the earlier difficulty.

Coupeville was the village that we hadn't gotten to yesterday, when I chose to spend the afternoon at Port Townsend instead. It's called "the City of Captains" because in the early days, many ship owners and captains made the town their headquarters between voyages because of the sheltered port in Penns Cove. Lots of fine Victorian houses there.

In my car, I followed Jack into the town. Our good parking karma was in effect -- we found spaces one block from the water, one behind the other.

It was a beautifully sunny, mild day. We walked down the two-block long waterfront, and decided to visit the museum first. A very nice, modern building has a lot of artifacts and good coverage of the island's history. At the suggestion of the volunteer at the door, we watched a fifteen minute video that didn't whitewash all the dark sides of the "discovery" of the island by the whites. It didn't oversimplify the disputes when the Historical Preserve was founded, either. The Preserve was created to prevent development of the agricultural lands in the central area of Whidbey Island.

We walked all around, visiting most of the shops and galleries that were open, but not buying anything. I had a hard time choosing where we should eat lunch, debating with myself between Toby's Tavern (has mussels, Jack doesn't care for most seafood, could be smokey since it's a tavern) and some other place. I could see Jack was losing patience in the same way he sometimes does with his daughter H----. But she has this indecision problem constantly, and I don't remember the last time I did, so I called him on it! Then settled on Toby's Tavern. A guy on the ferry boat yesterday had raved about the mussels, which come from Penn Cove where Coupeville is located.

Toby's had funky charm inside, with a big moosehead on the wall, naval insignia posted in one window, and a view of the water. It's an old building that was a mercantile store for a long time. It turned into a tavern in the thirties, with a bar that came from an old hotel across the street.

I got the small order of mussels, and was tempted into a Reuben sandwich, also. It was really more food than I needed, but I wanted both! The mussels were grand -- a large bowlful, steamed with beer. I had to ask for half the sandwich to be wrapped up (then left it somewhere along the way, of course).

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It was hard to go, but Jack and I had to head back to our respective homes. A big hug, then he headed north to Bellingham, and I drove south, to the Clinton ferry, then back to Seattle. This weekend was really a good Christmas present! Memories are a great gift.