Stonehenge USA
The highest art is always the most religious, and the greatest artist is always a devout person.
-- Professor Blackie
Monday, July 3, 2000
One year ago: Marsh Walk
Two years ago: Metajournals Launch
Three years ago: Traveling
Jack wanted to do some more rafting today, but the wind started blowing up so early that he gave up the notion. Instead, we decided to visit on of the few real "tourist attractions" of Klickitat County.
The Maryhill Museum was started by Sam Hill, of "what in Sam Hill" fame (or maybe that's a false association?). Sam Hill was a wheeler dealer in the late 1800s, involved in many development projects. He built some of the first paved roads out west, and was big in the "Good Roads" movement.
I knew this was a good place to visit, but I hadn't been there yet, and neither had Jack's daughter H----, so that was the plan for the day.
The climate change from the lower Columbia Gorge to the upper is really dramatic. The Klicktat area still has some trees, but the farther east you go, the drier it gets. By the time we got to the Maryhill area, the high bluffs above the river were just grassland, with some irrigated orchards near the shore. This is why the town that Sam Hill had platted out and started (he wanted Quakers to come and live there) just never took off -- the rainfall is really lower than he bargained on. If he'd been about fifteen miles to the west, I think it might have worked out.
All that's left is the big mansion he built, and Stonehenge.
Sam Hill had built a replica of Stonehenge out of cast concrete, as a memorial for the World War I dead from the county. There was a theory at the time that humans had been sacrificed at the original Stonehenge. Hill viewed the war dead as sacrifices for peace; thus the Stonehenge theme. It's perched by itself on the bluff above the Columbia. It's not a substitute for visiting Stonehenge -- it's its own weird experience.
The mansion is an oddity, a very elegant building made out of cast concrete instead of blocks of stone. He never lived there, since the town failed long before construction was complete on the house. Loie Fuller, an American modern dance pioneer who did most of her work in Paris, was a "very close friend" of Hill's, and suggested to him that he turn the place into a museum.
It does seem odd -- a museum in the middle of nowhere!
A sign inside the museum entrance said that the two graceful ramps on either side of the building were designed so that cars could bring Hill's guests up to the mansion, and right inside! The doors were big enough that a car of the day could enter, stop in the main reception hall, and drop off passengers, then continue on through to the other side. The sign didn't say that this had ever actually occurred, though, not even at the grand dedication ceremony in the twenties.
The three of us wandered throughout all three levels of the museum. Lots of historical items from Queen Marie of Roumania (who was actually British, Queen Victoria's granddaughter). Native American artifacts -- but they try to cover all sections of the continent, so no part gets described in any depth. Rodin sculptures, with models of how they were cast. Some Russian icons, and some present day Russian miniature paintings by Pavel Tikhomirov. Have you seen those cheezy Russian enamel boxes in import stores? Tikhomirov's paintings are the real deal -- not cheezy. Gorgeous exotic images, in fine detail, depicting Russian fairy tales that are mostly unknown in the west.
Out of all I saw at Maryhill, I was most taken with the Theatre de la Mode Gallery. This is a collection of miniature couture clothing created in Paris directly after World War II, as a promotional activity for the Paris fashion industry, trying to get back on its feet after the devastation of the occupation. The collection toured with stage sets for a few years after the war, then was stored at the museum (but neglected?). It has been restored in the past few years and has returned from touring Paris, the Met in New York, and Tokyo, Baltimore and London. A great resource for those interested in vintage clothing. I looked at this long after Jack and H--- had moved on.
Jack's favorite thing in the museum was a Frederic Leighton painting, "Solitude". It's a large piece, with beautiful drapery technique. He also liked the collection of chess sets from all over the world. H--- (when questioned later) said she didn't have a favorite thing, although she said she enjoyed visiting the museum.
When we were leaving (we also walked around an unimpressive outdoor sculpture "invitational" exhibit they are running), I wanted to see a newish historical marker thing. Jack and H---- weren't interested in this "Sculptural Overlook", but I was! So they waited in the car for me, while I walked all around it. I think having interpretive panels about all the various aspects of the Columbia Gorge (history, ecology, and so on) was a useful thing for vistors. I actually saw the wagon tracks from the Oregon Trail, on the other side of the river! But the big concrete structure seemed unattractive and not functional -- you can't climb on it for a better view, or shelter from the sun underneath -- so why was it a part of this project? Did I walk all around the marker just to tease those waiting for me? I'll never tell.
I think this whole excursion would make an interesting day trip as part of a Portland, Oregon visit.
* * * * * * * *
Tonight after dinner, Jack and I were invited to visit some neighbors of his parents. This couple is building a place on some land they bought from "Gutshot," another neighbor. Jack put his guitar and backpacker's guitar in the truck, and we set off up a gravel road that soon turned to upaved ruts. I had to get out to pull the barbed wire gate from across the road. Jack loves driving the bumpy road -- I just held on and was grateful that there weren't many points where it looked like we might go over the edge, as we climbed up the hill.
Finally (actually it was only about a half mile or so), two friendly dogs (belieing the "Beware" signs posted) came out to greet us and we were there. J--- and P---- came out to greet us. J--- said "welcome to the compound" and noted that some of their vistors thought it looked like a Gilligan's Island campsite. But really, it wasn't bad! The house they are building is usable now, with a great view and a sleeping loft above. They are working on adding more rooms to it. There's no running water (they bring it in) and no electricty.
We sat on the deck for a while, until it got too cool. Then we moved to the "outdoor living room" where they have a wood stove set up, with a couch and chairs around, sheltered by an old pickup camper and some panels that cut the wind. A fire in the stove made it very cozy! Jack played some guitar, accompanied by J--- on a one-string washtub bass.
I was amused by P----'s puzzlement when I asked for tonic to drink. She said, "but it's so bitter!" but was drinking a vodka and tonic herself. How could that be less bitter?
The chat was fun, until Jack and J--- started ranging on a variety of conservative issues. Since I didn't want to debate, I was rather bored at that point. "Too much money spent on public transit -- spend it on roads!" and various conspiracy theories. Argh -- spare me!
When it got late, we sucessfully bumped back down the road to Jack's parent's place. Jack and I discussed what would be involved in building a place like that. It's "off the grid" so they don't apply for permits and such. A lot of work! And by the time they are able to live there full-time, they might be too old to live safely in such a remote location. But they have a great view and a quiet life up there.
 |